Wednesday, 24 December 2008
Merry Xmas
We are off in an hour to Vang Vieng to climb into inner tubes and get drunk while floating down the mekong.... very much the Xmas message .....distilled through rice whiskey.
Keep safe y'all
MattnMay
Sunday, 14 December 2008
Tuesday, 9 December 2008
Bueller, Bueller? Fry, Fry? Thank you Simone....
The music for the last animoto was of course from Ferris Buellers Day off, and yes the Cure did a remake of it but i still think it is a very melancholic and beautiful track.
We are coming up to the end of the school year (well we would be if i wasback in NZ but its just a short mid year break here)
Another Xmas in Cambodia which makes for some curious juxtaposition of images ala Snow and Santa images while outside its hot sun and wind.
The wind has been quite strong recently, a warm wind that makes you think about Chch and its Nor'wester.
Where will we spend Xmas this year?
Well, it would be great to go home and show May NZ in the summer, let her meet the fandambly and such but between Visa troubles and cash it looks like we may be in Cambodia for the break.
May hasn't been to Laos so we may go to Luang Prabang then work our way down to Don det for 10 days as Cambodian nationals don't need a visa.
Who knows.
Happy Holidays all
Sunday, 7 December 2008
Thursday, 20 November 2008
Blogger is not a happy chappy
hmmm perhaps i need to get out of the lab for a while?
I have been trying to upload some video i shot of the Water Festival but for reasons too mundane to state the blogger page wont show the link toolbar.
So i have been forced to play with Animoto and Moblyng (two cute little online photo manipulation and presentation software that i came across in Classroom 2.0)
Hopefully i can upload some to the blog without having to go through blogger, but it is still a pain not having the post page as it should be.
I apologise if you read this, it has nothing of merit for others other than an opportuinity to do some distance Sigmunding on my state of mind.
Whatever makes you smile.
I will return when i have more to say.
Thursday, 6 November 2008
UN Day at NISC
Thursday, 16 October 2008
Whats in the newspaper today then?
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Wednesday, 15 October 2008
Background Reading
http://www.andybrouwer.co.uk/blog/ is worth looking at if you are interested in Cambodia
The following article is longbut gives some perspective on the current crisis.
Preah Vihear: the Thai-Cambodia temple disputeThe diplomatic and near-military crisis of 2008 between Thailand and Cambodia reflects both deep historical tensions and contemporary domestic politics, says Milton Osborne. The sudden re-emergence of contested Cambodian and Thai claims to sovereignty over about 4 square kilometres of territory close the Angkorian-period (9th-15th centuries) temple of Preah Vihear brought the two southeast Asian countries close to armed confrontation in July-August 2008.
The dispute bring into focus the difficult relations that have existed between the two neighbouring countries ever since Cambodia attained independence in 1953, as well reflecting much older historical problems between the two countries. At one level the Preah Vihear crisis - supplemented by another dispute over a much less prominent temple-site at Ta Moan Thom, well to the west of Preah Vihear - may be viewed as a classic example of contested boundaries arising from decisions taken during the colonial era, when France was able to impose its will over the then weaker state of Siam (Thailand).
This interpretation - which Cambodia rejects - is worth examining. But it is at least as important to consider contemporary developments in the context of earlier historical and geopolitical factors that lie behind Cambodia's existence as a state and the views held of it by its immediate and more powerful neighbours, Thailand and Vietnam. For while the governments of both Thailand and Vietnam may be hesitant to express the views held by some of their citizens, there is no doubt that in both these countries there are those who privately question Cambodia's right to exist as a truly independent state. In the case of Vietnam, a strong case may be made to argue that when Vietnam invaded Cambodia to defeat the Pol Pot regime in December 1978, it initially hoped that it would be possible to incorporate Cambodia into some form of "Indochinese Federation"; this would have included Laos, which would have been dominated by Vietnam. Such a view was a continuation of the explicit thinking of the Vietnamese Communist Party in the 1930s and into the 1960s, when the party held the view that neither Cambodia nor Laos had a right to run their own revolution.
The uncertain stateThe distinguished historian David Chandler noted (in A history of Cambodia) that until the 17th century Cambodia was a "reasonably independent" state. By the 19th century it had lost this status and its internal politics were dominated by its powerful neighbours, Siam and Vietnam. Perhaps the most useful, if shorthanded, way to describe Cambodia's situation in the mid-19th century was that it was a vassal state in a tributary relationship to two suzerains, Siam and Vietnam. But of those two powerful and expanding states Siam had by the 1840s assumed the more important position. Moreover, and despite some Cambodian rulers having sought assistance from Vietnam, Siam's greater dominance also reflected the fact that the two countries shared a similar culture. It was one deeply affected by adherence to Theravada Buddhism and by surviving shared beliefs and court rituals that harked back to Hindu concepts of the state developed during the Angkorian period.In the decades immediately before the French asserted their colonial control over Cambodia in 1863, Cambodian rulers looked to the Siamese court in Bangkok to guarantee both their position and their legitimacy. This situation is exemplified in the fact that members of the Cambodian royal family often spent long periods as hostages in the Siamese court in Bangkok. This was true of the last king to rule Cambodia before the arrival of the French and of King Norodom I before he came to the throne in 1860. At the same time Siamese officials occupied senior positions within the Cambodian rulers' courts, determining which foreign representatives they were permitted to meet. In these circumstances, and from the Siamese point of view, Cambodia's king was a person who held power at their behest. Again using European terminology, the Cambodian king was for the Siamese court the holder of a vice-regal position. This complex relationship differed sharply from the way in which Vietnamese rulers viewed Cambodia. Both in theory and in practice the Vietnamese rulers in the first half of the 19th century were ready to pursue policies which, had they succeeded, would have transformed Cambodia's status into being an integral part of the Vietnamese state governed in accordance with Vietnam's Chinese-influenced administrative practices.The border lineThe French gained control of Cambodia in 1863 and established their "protectorate" over the country - though in every way that mattered the term "protectorate" was merely a legal figleaf to hide the fact that was a French colony. At the time, Cambodia's territory did not include what are now the provinces of Battambang and Siem Reap. These two important areas had fallen under Siamese control in 1794, the outcome indeed of what had been a long reduction of Cambodian control over former Angkorian territories.
A contemporary reflection of this process is the fact that a substantial number of Khmer (Cambodian) speaking Thai citizens continue to live in northeastern Thailand, an area in which there are many Angkorian-period temples.In the last decade of the 19th century and the first decade of the 20th, Anglo-French rivalry in mainland southeast Asia led to the adjustment and implantation of borders that remain essentially unchanged to the present day. It was in this period, for example, that the northern states of modern peninsular Malaysia were removed from Siamese to British control. In Cambodia's case, and reflecting France's greater coercive power, this mixture of mapping and absorption led to the return to Cambodian sovereignty of the provinces of Battambang and Siem Reap.
This process was consolidated in 1907-08 with the establishment of a Cambodian northern boundary that took in the temple of Preah Vihear, located on an escarpment 525 metres above the northern Cambodian plain. But the precise coordinates of the boundary at this point were apparently in contradiction to the principle that had been laid down when the boundary between Cambodia and Siam was being delineated: namely, that the boundary should be drawn in terms of the existing watershed.This created a potential problem from an international legal point of view, and led to an appeal by Thailand to the International Court of Justice (ICJ) at The Hague to rule on the question of which country had sovereignty over Preah Vihear. In June 1962, the court ruled that indeed Cambodia held sovereignty. But the factors which led to this decision were not based on a judgment as to whether the boundary established in 1907-08 was "fair" or that it had been drawn in relation to the location of the watershed. Rather (and to summarise very briefly), the ICJ's decision rested on the fact that over many decades the Bangkok government had not disputed the validity of the map drawn up by the French, and agreed to at the time by the Siamese authorities, that incorporated Preah Vihear into Cambodian territory. The court also accepted that Siam had recognised Cambodian sovereignty in various other ways, including through visits to the temple by senior Siamese officials who were received by members of the French administration then governing Cambodia.Thai ambition, Cambodian fearHowever, it is fair to say that legal considerations are not always at the heart of Thai thinking on relations with Cambodia. From the time of Cambodia's gaining independence in 1953 until the onset of the Cambodian civil war in 1970, relations between Thailand and Cambodia were marked by almost continuous difficulty. While there were brief periods when relations were "correct", in others diplomatic relations were suspended. Throughout these years Thai security services worked to undermine the government in Phnom Penh. This was a fact explicitly stated to me by a senior Thai official with security responsibilities, during an extended discussion of Thai-Cambodian relations in 1980. General Channa Samudvanija observed that in essence, Thai policy towards Cambodia was to support those forces within the country that opposed the existing government. The rationale behind such a policy was the Realpolitik view of seeking to weaken a neighbour with which Thailand had substantial policy differences: Thailand supported United States policies in southeast Asia and Cambodia did not. Without placing excessive weight on the continuity of Thai policy at this stage with previous historical relations with Cambodia, there is no doubt that the views Channa advanced were also in part a reflection of those relations.In similar fashion, it would be incorrect to regard the conflict that erupted in July 2008 as a direct manifestation of the view expressed in 1980 by General Channa.
For it is clear that the crisis arose in part out of domestic Thai politics - and the positions being taken both by the government led by prime minister Samak and his political opponents. The Thai opposition had sought to undermine the Samak government by criticising its readiness to support Cambodia's wish to see Preah Vihear inscribed on Unesco's world heritage list.Nevertheless, discussion of the issue of Preah Vihear within Thailand does represent yet another instance of a readiness of some Thais, whether politicians or ordinary citizens, to adopt and advance positions that seek to undermine what they see as irrelevant and irksome Cambodian interests. The readiness of some observers to resort to describing the situation as an expression of big brother-little brother rivalry is too simple, but it would be equally wrong to dismiss this aspect of Thai and Cambodian thinking about the relationship between the two countries.At the same time, there is no doubting that the ingrained sensitivity felt by many Cambodians in relation to their relations with both Thailand and Vietnam on occasion borders on paranoia.
This was demonstrated in the events of 2003, when a Thai TV actress with a popular following in both Thailand and Cambodia was supposed to have stated that she would not perform in Cambodia until that country restored Thailand's sovereignty over the great Angkorian temple of Angkor Wat. Whether the actress, Suwanan Kongying, made such a statement or not, the publicity that surrounded her alleged remark led to serious ant-Thai rioting in Phnom Penh; the damage included the destruction of the Thai embassy and many Thai businesses (there was also a barely averted attack on the Thai ambassador). Here, again, a deeper analysis of the 2003 riots suggests that domestic Cambodian issues were involved.
This intimate yet conflictual history means that even the settlement of the latest dispute is no guarantee that the situation has been settled once and for all. For the wider issues associated with Preah Vihear are no nearer to being resolved. The mutual military withdrawals from the temple area have brought respite; but the memory of the febrile stand-off between Thai and Cambodian armed forces, amid ultra-nationalist rhetoric from politicians on both sides, remains fresh. The ever-present readiness of politicians in both countries to stoke the flames of nationalist animosity is reflected in the suggestion by a Cambodian official that the Phnom Penh government might build a wall that would exclude access to the temple from Thai territory - as is possible at present.Indeed, at least for the moment diplomacy has won out over war, as two sessions of talks between the Thai and Cambodian foreign ministers have helped create a marginally improved atmosphere. The fact that the new and highly regarded Thai foreign minister, Tej Bunnag, had been appointed at the direct wish of the king is also of importance. Now, however, Tej Bunnag's decision to leave his post - though unlikely to have any immediate effect on the Preah Vihear issue at a time when Bangkok is preoccupied with domestic political turmoil - may be regretted over the longer term since he was undoubtedly a calming influence in relation to Thai policies. In any event, a lengthy and continuing period of political turmoil in Thailand creates the possibility that the question of Preah Vihear may yet return to haunt Thai-Cambodian relations.
Reproduced courtesy of openDemocracy.net under a Creative Commons licence.
What a murky background
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/7672506.stm
nothing easy in sorting this issue out.
New arrivals in PP
Then home to sit on the balcony, watch the world and the river roll by and wonder if the war of words on the border would really turn into something else.
Woke this morning to more news about the temples, im not sure how "real news" is getting out as the Thais are keeping reports back 5kms and the Cambodian press is probably in the same boat.
Here is hoping that the call for Thai and Cambodian nationals to return home is premeture and doesnt indicate a rising level of antipathy between the two countries.
http://afp.google.com/article/ALeqM5gaB-g6ehvjR8iKR_ynzRnHll-gUg
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Sunday, 5 October 2008
Another Hot n Humid monday in PP
That was the last of my Pineapple Lumps (straight from the freezer!) I do not know why, but they are the only sweet from NZ i miss?!
The artificial pineapple flavour was given a big thumbs down by May (to which i secretly cheered!!) but they are now all gone.
The milk bottle like sweets i had ought from the local market have been dumped as i was sitting watching the news and saw shop keepers in Hong Kong dumping packs of the "Lucky rabbit" brand off their shelves...ahh melamine what can"t you poison with it?
Well, i wondered how long it would be before the constant humidity, insects and boredom would lead to an exchange of gunfire at Preah Vihear.
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The story seems to be that an exchange of words/shots and a grenade left two Thais injured and one Khmer. The news story is as follows,
Two Thai soldiers and one Cambodian soldier were injured in what was the first clash in the disputed territory since the two countries agreed to pull back troops in August after a tense month-long stand-off.
Each country has accused the other of encroaching on its territory.
http://www.reuters.com/article/worldNews/idUSTRE4940CF20081005
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Hopefully everyone will take a step back and we wont see this blow out of all proportion (unfortunately for both countries it is way too personal to be ignored)
The picture below is of a very relieved couple at the top of the limestone outcrop (the climb up was tricky but the view was incredible, the thought of heavy fighting in this area during the 79 invasion of the area is almost beyond belief
The pepper plantation was typical of any you might see, tall bushes covered in the bright green pepper seeds all clustered together.
Cooking with them this week has been great, they burst in your mouth as you chew them. The pepper we got has a real kick to it and makes the lime/chilli dip a real tongue biter. hmmmmm
Tuesday, 30 September 2008
A lazy weekend in Kep
Wednesday, 24 September 2008
Tuesday, 23 September 2008
The Countryside
We were visiting
Below is a cross section of a palm, the amazing patterns made by the stem structure were made more interesting as the plant started to decay in the heat. Nothing stays around for long in this climate.
Sunday, 21 September 2008
The weekend that was
Wednesday, 17 September 2008
The unpleasent side of street life in PP, or anywhere i guess
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Their modus operandi is to just cruise the streets looking for a female using a cellphone while riding on a moto, or the unsuspecting tourist with a handbag not held securely (yes i know "that isn't very sensible, or legal?!"but we are in Cambodia, it seems police will not stop you even for driving drunk, with 5 passengers, without a helmet)
We had borrowed Bom's nice new moto (older sister of May) and had just had it detailed and cleaned when i left to go get out some cash from an ATM. May got bored of waiting for me and drove the 100 metres down to the shops, she had her ph in her left hand, as the right operates the gas on a moto. In that time two young guys drove past her, one grabbed at the cellphone, unfortuanately May is made of sterner stuff and the grip on the phone didnt give, the bikes bumped and May ended up flipped off her bike and landed on the street, hitting her head and side and seeing stars.
As May told me later she lay there, blinking, seeing starts then looked at her hand to see the phone still gripped tightly. She got up, dusted herself off and drove back to pick me up.
The guys managed to drive away which is a shame as mob justice for this kind of crime can be quite quick and brutal!
So instead of going to eat frog and chicken with the yummy peppery lime dipping sauce, we went home and i put some ice on the back of her head.
I lit more incense than usual and said thanks for what could have been really nasty, wasn't.
May seemed ok, later on that evening I went to our local Bangladeshi restaurant (have to love somewhere that has beautiful green tomato chutney with the $1 samosas!) and got a selection of curries to take out.
May sat up in bed and took nourishment, but was certainly feeling the aches this morning (no bike ride before brekkie today!)
Mum is coming to see her today, and if she has any dizzy spells or headaches we will take her down for a checkup, but hopefully she has got away from this without a scratch...... yes we are getting the scratches on the moto taken out.
Dont want an angry older sister on our case!
Tuesday, 16 September 2008
Getting into the PYP thing.
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At four in the morning, nearly all of the residents of Phnom Penh gather at the temple with offerings of rice, which they toss on the ground, feeding the dead ancestors.
"Some of the ghosts have small mouths," one man explains. "So we have to use special rice."
Many of the people throw sticky rice, which, apparently is easier for the spirits to consume.
According to Buddhist beliefs, the lives that we live, after death, are predicated by the actions that we took when we were living. Minor infractions would be punished with small punishments, such as being an unattractive ghost or having a small mouth. With a small mouth, it is hard to eat. Other, more severe, punishments could include being crippled or having no mouth at all.
At 8:00 AM, people return to the temple, with offerings for the monks. "They don't just give food," explains Mey Sameth, who was a monk for seven years. "They bring money and other things as well. As a monk we looked forward to this period all year long, because we could get new clothing and good food."
At 10:00 the people return with more food, which will be shared between monks and poor people. Os many of the Buddhist traditions seem to relate to feeding the poor. Disabled people also crowd around the temple tat is hour, begging alms. To give help to the less-fortunate, particularly during Pchum Ben, is to acquire merit. Many people explained that the offerings they made during the festival were to cancel out past sins.
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Num Onsam and sweet Num Korm (steamed cakes wrapped in banana leaves) are taken to pagodas during the festival to share among participants. Num Onsam is a kind of cylindrical cake of glutinous rice wrapped around a mixture of pork, salt and other ingredients. Num Korm is shaped like a pyramid and made of rice-flour and filled with a coconut and palm sugar mixture.
Money offered to monks goes towards the construction or renovation of temples and community development such as the construction of bridges and schools, tree planting, or as donations to needy families.
Khmers believe that fraternal feelings are fostered with the exchange of food and Num Onsam and Num Korm cakes. This ensures that visitors to any pagoda during the Pchum Ben festival will be warmly welcomed and invited to taste these cakes and enjoy the festivities.
In observing friends and colleagues, it was amazing to see that even people who considered themselves only marginally religious still took the Pchum Ben festival seriously. They felt a real obligation to feed their ancestors, lest their suffering should continue. Even friends who claimed to have converted to Christianity, and who attended church regularly, took time out of their schedule to make the early morning pilgrimage to the temple, and feed the ancestors.
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It was as if they were saying that their choice to convert was a personal decision, but one that shouldn't be imposed on the souls who died before. Historic records show that even under the Khmer Rouge, and later under the communists, prohibitions against religious worship were unenforceable during Pchum Ben. In fact, the prohibitions were eventually lifted, with the result that high ranking Party members felt obligated to attend temple with their superiors.
The Buddhist religion is such an integral part of the Khmer culture that neither political upheaval, economic crisis, the spread of foreign religions, or the intervention of modern society will shake the fundamentals of Khmer beliefs. It is refreshing to see that, although many aspects of the Khmer culture were lost during the Regime, the Khmers have managed to maintain their religious devotion and their family-centered way of life.
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May and I will be accompanying Ms Savrey and Grandma Savrey to one of the Pagodas further out from town on Sunday. (the temples/wats in the city are fairly well off, the thinking is that giving at a temple that is more isolated helps both materially and spiritually, cant argue that!)
Photos will follow
Monday, 15 September 2008
This is how we roll in PP
They are quite small, and require human locomotion but we are no longer just pedestrians in the city.
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So we went for our first ride last night, it wasn’t a grand ride just a wander down to the local market at Psas Chas (this is the old market and it is an assault on the sense if you aren't used to it).
May stood on the carrier at the back and we wove our way through cars, bikes, cyclos, motos and dogs down to the fruit and vege area.
Its monsoon time at the mo so it was spitting and dark and every so often a great big 4x4 drove past with the disdain that only a cpl of tonnes of steel can do to a drivers psyche.
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We filled the basket at the front (YES it has a black basket at the front thank you very much) and May hopped on and to much cat calls and hoots we proceeded to wind our way through the potholes back home.
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The landlady was making Lok Lak and that inspired May to do the same.
You lift out a leaf from the bottom, place a mix of rice, meat and veges on it, drop a small amount of the chilli/pepper sauce on it then fold and eat....... so delicious.
I forgot my camera so the pics were from my cell phone, i apologize for the quality.
OK! Now here is something to ponder
The headline 'Lightning kills more Cambodians than Landmines' seems perverse in itself, but it's true. Known as one of the most heavily-mined countries on the planet, demining operations and landmine safety education have led to a sharp decrease in landmine deaths in recent years. To-date in 2008, landmines have killed nine people, but for the same period, 77 Cambodians have died due to lightning strikes. This doesn't take into account the number of injuries sustained as a result of landmines (Cambodia has over 40,000 amputees) and lightning bolts but in itself, the relatively low number of landmine deaths is positive news, if you can call any death a positive. Last year, landmines killed 26 people, with lightning killing another 45, so the sharp increase in lightning deaths is becoming a major concern.
The lightening here is at time scary, you see a mix of fork and sheet and at time you see strikes hitting land.
A month ago i was sitting watching the free light/sound show on our balcony (its covered so you feel apart from it all) on the street next to ours a young man was hit and killed as he lent on a steel fence.
Looking forward to the end of Monsoon!
I have added Andy Brouwer onto my blog, who knows if it will work (Im a damn newbie) but his blog makes interesting reading
http://www.andybrouwer.co.uk/blog/
Sunday, 7 September 2008
A Sunny Sunday in Oudong
So Sunday saw us up early and getting our local TukTuk driver to drive out to Oudong.
But yet again i was pleasently surprised, the ride out was that strangely Cambodian mix of flat landscapes punctuated by surreal overloaded busses/cars/mopeds rattling past.
With us went Mom , Mays younger sister, who spent much of the time on her cellphones (one for each bf im thinking!) lol it is very innocent but takes you back to when sitting listening to utter drivel from that special someone seemed like the ONLY important thing to do with your time (Damn 17yr olds)
So we saw the stupas rising out of the flatlands well before we got near the temples. The flatness of cambodia makes even a small hill seem majestic.
We lay there groaning full when May looked over and said there is one more dish coming. This was chicken with fried holy basil, a very tasty and piquant dish.